Keep Me Cozy Fingerless Gloves Pattern

I swear I'm not addicted to making fingerless gloves...

I swear.

Okay, I'm lying!

They are just the funnest things (right now) to create and I have so many ideas that I want to see incorporated! Right now, I'm a little crazy about the puff stitch and have so many projects in mind that I would like to see that stitch in.

These fun gloves are fun and I love the textured look that I created by alternating between front post double crocheting, puff stitching, and half-double crocheting. The puff stitch makes these gloves thicker and warmer but have an elegant look. I think they look beautiful in this soft light grey color!
I have this pattern available on PDF to download on the following websites:

Etsy
Ravelry
Craftsy
Love Crochet

You can find the free pattern below!


Everything you need to know before getting started

Puff Stitch

 The puff stitch is rather easy, but let me walk you through it step by step if you have never done it before! Hopefully after reading this, you will be an expert :) Pictures included.

• Yarn over and insert hook into stitch
• Grab working yarn and pull up a loop
• Yarn over again and insert hook into same stitch
• Grab working yarn and pull up another loop
• Yarn over and pull through ALL loops on hook
• Chain one to lock in the puff stitch

And that’s all there really is to it! I took some pictures of what the final product looked like after doing a row of puff stitches:



Chain 1/2 at beginning of round

 You may notice that throughout the pattern, I ask you to chain 1 for single crochets or half double crochets, and chain 2 for double crochets, but that they do not count as a stitch.

At the beginning of the round, you will create your first stitch of the round in the same stitch you created your chain 1/2 in. At the end of the round, you are to join to that first stitch instead of the chain 1/2. This creates what is called a hidden seam.

The hidden seam looks nicer with these gloves. I have tried it the other way (joining to the chain), and the result is a little sloppier.

Front Post Double/Single Crochet

 Front post crocheting is a stitch that created a ribbed or cabled look to your work, and is a favorite of mine for creating brims of hats or wrist cuffs for fingerless gloves. If you are unfamiliar with Front post crocheting, let me explain it to you the best that I can:

• There are essentially two parts to the basic stitches we make in crochet: the little “v” part that we normally crochet into, and the “post”. The post is essentially the part of the stitch that gives the stitch its height. This is the part that we need to work with in front post crocheting instead of the v that we normally crochet into.
• To crochet front post, we insert our hook behindthe post and grab our working yarn and pull it through. If the stitch is single crochet, we do not have to yarn over first. If the stitch is half-double, double, etc., Then we must yarn over first, just as we do with the normal stitches.
• Once you have pulled the working yarn through and drawn up a loop, we create the rest of the stitch as normal. The only true difference between a regular stitch and the front post stitches are where we place our hook to draw the working yarn through.

Half double crochet

 Half double crochet is about the height between a single crochet and a double crochet and in my opinion creates a cute little cluster. To work this stitch:

• Yarn over. Insert hook into stitch. Pull working yarn through so that there are 3 loops on hook (same as a double crochet).
• Finish off by yarning over and pulling through all 3 loops on hook.

Materials needed:

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• One skein of worsted weight (4) acrylic yarn (Red Heart Super Saver or Caron Simply Soft for example). Will not use full skein.
• Crochet hook (I used I/5.5 MM but you may adjust to a smaller or larger hook depending on size of hands)
• Scissors to cut the yarn
• Tapestry Needle to sew in ends
• Stitch marker is optional to keep track of 1^st

Gauge and tension:

Gauge is not extremely important for this project. Everyone’s hands are different so you will have to adjust accordingly. However, do keep tension in mind, as you need to make two of these and you want them to be as similar as possible.

Skill level:

 This project is easy but use of front post double crochet, half-double crochet, and the puff stitch is necessary.

Terms Used: 

• Ch - chain
• Sl st - slip stitch
• Dc- double crochet
• Fpdc - front post double crochet
• Hdc - half-double crochet
• Sc- single crochet

Notes:
This project is worked in the round.

I made this pattern adjustable to fit the sizes of all hands.

The initial chain count is up to the crocheter, as the stitches used to not require a set amount of chains/stitch counts.

When working a hdc into a puff stitch, make sure to work into the stitch and not the ch 1 space made to lock in the puff stitch.

The ch 1 at the beginning of the hdc and puff stitch rows do not count as stitches.

Amount of stitches may decrease after making thumb hole, but only by one stitch. There are no other increases or decreases in the pattern -- up until that point the stitch count should be the same as the amount of foundation chains made.

Pattern for Keep Me Cozy Fingerless Gloves/Mittens

Foundation: Ch enough chains to fit around your wrist. Chain them a little loosely so that it will fit around the widest part of hand without tearing. Once desired amount of chains is reached, sl st to 1^st chain to join, making sure not to twist the chains. (If you need an example of an amount of chains, I chained 25. They fit a little loosely on me but do not fall off when I put my hands down to my sides. I have pretty average size hands, I think.)
Row 1: ch 2. dc 1 in same stitch as ch 1. dc in all other stitches around. Sl st to 1^st dc (not ch 2) to join.
Row 2: ch 2. FPDC 1 into 1^st dc. Dc 1 into next stitch. Repeat all the way around. Sl st to top of 1^st fpdc to join.
Row 3 and 4: ch 2. fpdc 1 into 1^st fpdc. Dc 1 into next dc. Repeat all the way around. Sl st to top of 1^st fpdc to join. (If you wish to make cuff longer, repeat this row until desired length).
Row 5: ch 1. hdc into same stitch as ch 1 and all other stitches around. Sl st to 1^st hdc to join.
Row 6: ch 1. puff stitch 1 into 1^st hdc and rest of stitches all the way around. Sl st to 1^st puff stitch (making sure that it isn’t a chain space) to join.
Row 7 - 10: Repeat alternating hdc/puff stitch rows until height of thumb is reached. For me this was 3 rows hdc & 3 rows puff stitch.
**Row 11 Right Handed Glove if hdc row: ch1. hdc 1 into same space as ch 1 and next 4 stitches. Ch 5 (give or take 1 or 2 if thumbs are smaller/bigger). hdc 1 into remaining stitches and join with sl st to 1^st hdc.
**Row 11 Right Handed Glove if puff stitch row: ch1. puff stitch 1 into same space as ch 1 and next 4 stitches. Ch 5 (give or take 1 or 2 if thumbs are smaller/bigger). puff stitch 1 into remaining stitches and join with sl st to 1^st puff stitch.
**Row 11 Left Handed Glove if hdc row: ch 1. this row will be the row of right handed glove backwards. Make sure chain count and final stitch count is the same. Sl st to 1^st hdc to join.
 **Row 11 Left Handed Glove if puff stitch row: ch 1. this row will be the row of right handed glove backwards. Make sure chain count and final stitch count is the same. Sl st to 1^st puff stitch to join.
Row 12: ch 1. hdc or puff stitch 1 (depending on what row came before) into same stitch as ch 1. hdc/puff stitch into each stitch until thumb hole. Place 5 stitches into chain space. Hdc/puff stitch 1 into remaining stitches and join with sl st to 1^st hdc/puff stitch. This row may create a decrease by 1 stitch. This will allow the gloves to be tighter by the fingers. Do not increase unless it is too tight. If increase is needed, hdc/puff stitch 2 into last stitch instead of 1.
Row 13: ch 1. hdc/puff stitch 1 (depending on what row came before, remember to alternate) into same stitch as ch 1. hdc/puff stitch into each remaining stitch. Sl st to 1^st hdc/puff stitch to join.
Row 14: repeat alternating rows until desired length is reached. This was the final row for me but for bigger hands, more rows may be needed, and for smaller hands this row may not even be needed.
Row 15 or final row: ch 1. sc 1 into same stitch as ch 1. sc into remaining stitches. Join with sl st to 1^st sc.
To finish off: ch 1. cut working yarn, leaving at least an inch and a half long tail. Pull tail through loop on hook. Tighten to fasten, then weave in ends.

“Credits”

Pattern by: Brittany at Crafty Tuesday Crochet
Yarn used in pictures: Mainstays yarn in soft gray heather
Pictures by: Brittany at Crafty Tuesday Crochet

As this pattern is an original design by me, I ask that you link to my blog, shop, or Ravelry profile for others to download it instead of sharing it (especially if you paid for it). You may sell any item made from one of my patterns as long as you credit me/don’t claim that it is your own original design.

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to email me! I have my emails sent to my phone and can check it daily. Response may not be immediate if question requires me to do a bit of research, so please be patient with me. Email: craftytuesdaycrochet@aol.com Blog: craftytuesdaycrochet.wordpress.com